Lizard Chaser. Waterfall Jumper. Bee Gee?
For six days in late April, S and I were in Costa Rica. It was a thrilling, exhausting, memorable trip full of surreal moments, and I'm going to try to capture the mood in a series of posts.
THURSDAY, APRIL 24
We flew out of Dulles at 7 a.m., connecting in Charlotte for a late-morning flight. The Charlotte airport has what appears to be a relatively new beer bar, the Carolina Brewing Co., but after two hours of walking around looking for the perfect breakfast and lounging in the airport's signature rocking chairs, I decided to pass on a quick brew. A friendly IT contractor on the flight sternly warned us to avoid any cabs in Costa Rica without a yellow triangle, since unlicensed cabs might kidnap and rob us. I was surprised by how everyone kept referring to Costa Rica as a "third world country" - it's the most whitebread country in Central America, perfect for easily-startled Americans, right?
A Three-Hour Tour
We got a cab (no yellow triangle!) to our makeshift shuttle-van pickup spot, which turned out to be a souvenir shop. A young woman at the store danced in the aisles to the classic soul and funk on the local radio as we waited and browsed. I bought a chorreader (cloth bag for making coffee, set in a wooden stand) and some cigars, which Dancing Queen assured me were no different than Cubans, just made in Costa Rica. It was one of the few purchases we ended up making by card - a lot of places only take US dollars or colones - and it backfired for S, whose bank statement revealed she was charged $145 for a $14 small painting of a local violin guy. (She's working it out now.)
We had a three-hour trip on what is considered Costa Rica's best road, to Manuel Antonio, a Pacific beach area. By "best road" I mean "entirely paved." It was as steep and winding as any road I've ever been on, wrapping around the mountains as we passed through tiny towns with no distinction between residential and commercial zoning. We also learned that hired drivers like to run personal errands en route - ours stopped at two roadside stands for produce, including an entire flat of mangoes (he promised the owner to bring back the flat). This drive was also our first experience of single-lane-only bridges that looked like they'd fall apart any minute and featured long backups. A British couple in the van told us they didn't realize San Jose was so boring, so they jumped in the shuttle and got dropped off with no place to stay shortly before our final stop.
Hostel Takeover
Traveling with no reservations is pretty common in Costa Rica, we learned from the drifters at our first hostel, on top of a big hill with a gorgeous ocean view in Manuel Antonio. We'd been traveling for 14 hours and weren't in much mood to chat with the young hippies, although S patronized a dark-skinned, shirtless Brit-accented guy who turned out to be Norweigan. I plopped in a porch hammock and tried to ignore everyone bantering but eventually chatted with a tall Canadian chick about how weird this hammock was.
Monika, one of the hostel managers and San Francisco native, recommended dinner at D'Angel, a small open-air restaurant (also typical) with spaghetti as well as comida tipica (traditional food - meat, rice/beans, stewed vegetables, cole slaw and fried plantains). We saw our first tiny lizard hanging under the roof, and encountered Costa Rica's de facto national beer, Imperial. Big heart-of-palm salad, two fresh juice drinks and big comida tipica beef and chicken dishes: $15. Pretty decent. The local supermarket also had good foreign beer - I picked up a bottle of Belgium's Leffe and an Imperial. And learned that it's hard to drink bottled beer in humid weather - it gets really frothy and nearly chokes you.
Next post: My Lover Tour Guide, Or, Creepin' Lizards

HALLOWEEN
I watched 
